2JZ Non VVT-i Trigger Information

Technical Library › Engine Information › ToyotaUpdated Sep 2026

Before VVT-i, Toyota's JZ sixes used a simple 12-tooth crank wheel and single-tooth cam pickups, or on some naturally aspirated versions, a distributor. Here is how we wire either layout to a Haltech and set the trigger so it syncs first time.

Which layout do you have?

Non VVT-i JZ engines come with one of two timing sensor setups:

  • Crank and cam sensors: every turbo version, and some naturally aspirated ones. The crank sensor sits near the alternator and reads a 12-tooth wheel built into the crank timing belt gear. Two single-tooth cam sensors live on the head.
  • Distributor: some naturally aspirated engines such as the 2JZ-GE. All the timing sensors are inside the distributor.

If your engine has VVT-i, the crank wheel is different, so use our 2JZ VVT-i trigger guide instead. General engine info is in our 2JZ / 1JZ engine notes.

Crank sensor wiring

Both crank and cam sensors are two-wire reluctor (magnetic) types. The crank sensor goes to the Haltech Trigger 4-core shielded cable:

Haltech wireSensor pin
Yellow (Trigger +)Pin 1
Green (Trigger -)Pin 2

Cam sensors: G1 or G2

There are two single-tooth reluctor cam sensors on the intake side of the head, near the injectors. G1 sits about halfway along the engine and G2 is toward the back. You only need one. Haltech terminated harnesses use G2, and we'd stick with that unless you have a reason not to.

Haltech wireSensor pin
Yellow (Home +)Pin 1
Green (Home -)Pin 2
Using the factory Toyota wiring?

On factory wiring, including when you run a plug-in adapter harness, pin 2 of each sensor goes to signal ground rather than to a dedicated negative wire. In that case, set the Ground Reference to Enabled for both Trigger and Home in the trigger setup.

2JZ-GE distributor wiring

The distributor holds three reluctor pickups that all share one common return wire, called G-:

  • NE: a 24-tooth pickup that gives crank position.
  • G1 and G2: two sensors reading a single-tooth wheel. Only one is needed.
Distributor pinSignalGoes to
Pin 1, black (NE)Trigger +Trigger 4-core, yellow
Pin 2, red (G1)Home +Home 4-core, yellow
Pin 3, white (G2)Not usedLeave unconnected
Pin 4, green (G-)Shared returnSignal ground, via the Trigger 4-core blue wire

Because the return is shared and grounded, the Trigger and Home ground settings need to be enabled on this engine as well.

Trigger settings and TDC offset

With the crank and G2 cam sensor, set the trigger as a 12-tooth crank with a single-tooth home, both reluctor. The reference setup uses a TDC offset of 5 with the G2 sensor.

Using G1 instead? Its tooth is a full engine rotation away, so add 360 to the offset, giving 365.

Whichever sensor you use, treat the offset as a starting point. Lock the timing, check it with a timing light and adjust until the light matches the ECU. Our ignition timing calibration guide explains the process. If you'd like the full trigger configuration screenshots, ask us and we'll send them with advice for your build.

Troubleshooting

SymptomUsually
No RPM while crankingCrank sensor polarity reversed, or ground reference wrong for factory wiring
RPM shows but no syncHome sensor wiring or polarity, or the wrong cam sensor connected
Timing out by a large amountG1 used with the G2 offset, or the other way round
Intermittent sync loss at high RPMShield not grounded, or the trigger cable run beside ignition wiring

A scope or trigger log answers most of these fast. See checking crank and cam sensors. For factory-style plugs, we stock the 2JZ crank and cam plug and pin kit.

FAQ

Can I use the G1 sensor?

Yes. Just add 360 to the TDC offset and confirm with a timing light.

Does this apply to the 1JZ?

Non VVT-i 1JZ engines use the same 12-tooth crank and single-tooth cam idea, but always verify your offset with a timing light.