Which version do you have?
Toyota built these engines two ways, and the cam signal is what changes:
- Waste-spark coilpack engines have a crank sensor in the block and a cam sensor in the cylinder head.
- Distributor engines have no cam sensor in the head. Some carry a cam position sensor inside the distributor housing, but not all of them do, so check yours before you plan the wiring.
Crank sensor
The crank trigger wheel sits behind the timing chain drive gear on the nose of the crank, with the sensor mounted near the alternator. Every version uses a 36-2 pattern: 34 real teeth with two missing to mark position.
| Signal | Sensor pin | Haltech crank 4-core |
|---|---|---|
| Positive | 1 | Yellow |
| Negative | 2 | Green |
| Unused | 3 | Leave unconnected |
Because the sensor sits beside the alternator, keep the shielded trigger cable intact all the way to the connector.
Cam sensor
| Signal | Coilpack engine (head sensor) pin | Distributor engine pin | Haltech home 4-core |
|---|---|---|---|
| Positive | 1 | 4 | Yellow |
| Negative | 2 | 3 | Green |
Keeping the factory wiring?
Many people reuse the Toyota harness between the sensors and the ECU. If you do, the sensor negatives need to go to signal ground rather than the Haltech green wires:
- Crank sensor pin 2 to signal ground.
- Coilpack cam sensor pin 2 to signal ground.
- Distributor cam sensor pin 3 to signal ground.
With OEM Toyota wiring, set Ground Reference to Enabled in the trigger configuration. It's an easy one to miss, and it's worth checking first if the engine won't sync.
Trigger configuration
Haltech's trigger settings screenshot shows the recommended configuration for this engine. Need this diagram? Ask us and we'll send it over with advice for your build. Once it's running, confirm the TDC offset with a timing light before tuning; see how to set your TDC offset angle.
Working on another Toyota? See our 2JZ VVT-i, 1UZ-FE and 1FZ-FE pages.
