Why it won't start out of the box
Haltech ships the Elite Pro Plug-in ECU in a default state that isn't set for any particular car. That's deliberate. The same hardware covers several factory variants, and each one has different pin functions on the factory harness. Until you load a map and tell the ECU which variant it's plugged into, it doesn't know what's connected to what. On top of that, the drive-by-wire throttle won't operate until it has been calibrated.
There are three jobs, and the order matters: load the map, pick the plug-in model, then calibrate the throttle.
Before you start
- A laptop with the Elite Software Programmer (ESP) installed.
- The USB cable that came with the ECU, plus the ECU's communications cable.
- A healthy battery. A battery charger on the car is cheap insurance while you're connected with the ignition on.
- The exact variant of your car, and whether it has been swapped or modified from factory spec.
Our Before You Begin article covers the pre-install checks in more detail.
The setup, step by step
1. Swap the ECUs
Find the factory ECU, disconnect it and plug the Haltech into the same harness connectors. Bolt it in place with the hex-head screws and washers from the kit. Don't leave it hanging on the plugs, because vibration kills connectors.
2. Connect ESP
Plug the communications cable into the ECU's comms port and run the USB cable from it to your laptop. Turn the ignition on to power the ECU, then connect in ESP. Give it time to read the map and display it completely before you touch anything.
3. Upload the right map
Go to File and choose Upload Map. Pick the map that matches your car most closely. A close match means fewer settings to fix later.
4. Choose the plug-in model
Open Setup, then Main Setup, and find Plug-in Information. This setting tells the ECU how the factory harness is pinned, so it has to match how the harness left the factory, not what the engine is now.
If the car was naturally aspirated from the factory and has since been turbocharged or supercharged, still choose the naturally aspirated variant. The boost doesn't change the wiring. The exception is when a different factory ECU and harness have gone in with an engine swap. Then you pick the variant that matches the harness actually in the car. Plug-in Model Selection has the full rules, and Vehicle CAN Support explains which factory modules the ECU will talk to.
5. Accept the drive-by-wire disclaimer
Go to the Functions tab and open Drive By Wire. A disclaimer appears. Read it properly, because it covers the safety responsibilities that come with an electronic throttle. Then accept it.
6. Calibrate the pedal, then the throttle
On the DBW Calibration tab, calibrate the Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) first by following the prompts. Then run the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) calibration, which ESP does automatically. Apply the result and reboot the ECU.
7. Start it
That's the setup done, and the car is ready to start. Before driving it, check that the pedal gives full throttle, the throttle closes fully when released, and the idle is steady.
Quick checklist
| Step | Where in ESP | Done when |
|---|---|---|
| Load map | File > Upload Map | Map for your variant is loaded |
| Plug-in model | Setup > Main Setup > Plug-in Information | Matches the factory harness in the car |
| DBW disclaimer | Functions > Drive By Wire | Read and accepted |
| APP calibration | Drive By Wire > Calibration | Pedal range recorded |
| TPS calibration | Drive By Wire > Calibration | Automatic routine finished, applied, ECU rebooted |
Two Ford-specific notes
The audio module
The factory Ford audio module keeps working normally with the Haltech installed. On some variants, though, putting the original Ford ECU back after the Haltech has been fitted can leave the audio module needing to be reprogrammed by a Ford dealer. Keep that in mind if the car might go back to stock. Our FG MkI radio reprogramming article has more on this.
Vehicle speed source on the dyno
On a two-wheel-drive dyno, only the rear wheels turn. If the ECU's main vehicle speed source is still the front wheels, the cluster gets confused. You'll see a dead speedometer, an odometer that climbs absurdly fast, and upset ABS and traction control. Set the main speed source to the rear for dyno work. Then switch it back to the front before road driving, so wheelspin doesn't cause false readings.
FAQ
My ECU connects but the car won't crank or start. What did I miss?
Almost always the plug-in model, or the DBW calibration that didn't get applied before the reboot. Check both first.
My car is turbo now. Do I pick the turbo variant?
Only if the factory turbo harness is in the car. Otherwise, pick the variant the car was built as.
Can you do this setup for me?
Yes. Get in touch and we can set up the ECU and base tune it for your combination.
