Stall Saver watches engine rpm. When rpm falls to the On Value you set, the ECU switches on an output that feeds the engine extra air, and rpm recovers before the engine dies. Think of a heavy clutch engagement or a sudden A/C load on a lumpy cam at idle.
Setting it up
- On Value: the rpm at which Stall Saver kicks in. Set it below your normal idle, so it never fights a healthy idle, but high enough that the engine can still recover when the extra air arrives.
- Wiring: pick an output for the air device on the Wiring node. That's usually a DPO (digital pulsed output) driving a solenoid air valve or a throttle kicker.
Do you need it?
Probably not if you run proper idle control. That already handles stall prevention, and the Stall Saver behavior is now built into it. Stall Saver makes the most sense on engines without an idle valve or drive-by-wire, where a simple bleed solenoid or kicker is the only way to add air. If you're adding a solenoid, remember it needs its own air path that bypasses the throttle. Check the idle control wiring options first, and ask us if you're unsure which approach suits your engine.
