The Haltech IC-7 Dash is our recommended aftermarket dash for just about any application. This vibrant display is relatively easy to setup so lets jump into getting your IC-7 Dash installed with these recommended steps.
Recommended Tools:
Recommended Supplies:
- Extra 20 gauge wire 6 different colors excluding black/red
- 16-20 gauge Wire splices
- Shrink wrap
- Double stick tape
- FD small ecu pin Part# 173716-1
Install Steps
Step 1 -
- Remove the OEM Gauge cluster - we recommend following the FD service manual for instructions how to remove this properly.
Step 2 -
- Prep the 34 Pin main connector harness - From Haltech this harness has 4 wires going to a 4 pin DTM connector - Red, Black, White, and Blue.
- It also has connector pin place holders in the rest of the connector. Remove the place holders from the following pin locations - 18, 22, 23, 24, 25, and 30.
- Cut to length your 6 color wires to match the length of this harness.
- Strip each wire on both ends roughly 1/4" on each end.
- Crimp the supplied pins onto one end of each of the 6 wires.
- Unlock the 34 pin connector by pressing on the large white slot on the connector body
- Push the 6 pinned wires into the 6 pin locations you made available
- Lock the 34 pin connector by press on the double white slots on the connector body.
- On the 4 Pin DTM plug remove the orange pin holder. Then use your flat head screw driver to release the latches for only the black and red wires.
- Cut the pins off the black and red wire and strip the end of the wires roughly 1/4".
- Re-Install the orange pin holder back into the 4 pin DTM connector
Step 3 -
- You now have 8 stripped wires that will need to be spliced into the OEM cluster wiring. Take some thought on how you want to do this as depending on how you splice in the wires you may not be able to put the car back to stock if that is something you may intend to do in the future. The OEM harness has loom on each of the plugs that will need to be cut back to give more access to splicing in the 8 wires. Each splice should be crimped and shrink wrapped to ensure a solid connection. I recommend against soldering.
- Before you start to cut label the 3 dash connectors you will be cutting wires from. You can do this by looking at their pin location and wire colors to match them up.
- Connect the black wire to Pin location 4K wire color black
- Connect the red wire to pin location 2D wire color black / yellow
- Connect Haltech pin 18 wire to location 2B wire color white / green
- Connect Haltech pin 22 wire to location 2J wire color green / black
- Connect Haltech pin 23 wire to location 2H wire color green / white
- Connect Haltech pin 24 wire to location 4J wire color brown / yellow
- Connect Haltech pin 25 wire to location 4G wire color red / white
- Connect Haltech pin 30 wire to location 3C wire color yellow / red
- In order to have the speed sensor output to function correctly at the ECU you will need to splice OEM pin location 3A wire color yellow / white to OEM pin location 3E wire color green / red
Step 4 -
- Connect the Haltech DTM-4 to DTM-4 CAN extension cable into the prepped 4 pin DTM connector you previously remove the red and black wires from.
- on the opposite end of the DTM-4 to DTM-4 CAN extension cable remove the orange pin lock
- de-pin all 4 pins - you no longer need this connector
- cut all 4 pins off
- route the DTM-4 to DTM-4 CAN extension cable through the FD dash to the ECU area in the passenger footwell
- strip back the protective sheathing to give yourself more length on the CAN wires white / blue - the red/black wires can just be cut at the end of the sheathing as they are dead wires.
- strip the white / blue wires 1/4"
- Crimp on the FD small ecu pin 173716-1 on the white / blue wires
- unplug connector 2 from the ECU and unlock the top pin latch
- insert the blue wire pin into ECU pin location 2E
- insert the white wire pin into ECU pin location 2G
Step 5 -
- To get the CAN output working connect to your ECU with Eugene. Go to the Functions tab, then under the Serial Comms section click on CAN 1 - Set the Bit Rate to 1 Mbps, If this is the only CAN device Select the Terminate Check Box. Set the Wideband Type to NONE (unless you have a CAN wideband) Then Set the Non-Adaptronic Output Mode to Haltech V2 (1Mbps) - Leave the Enable Adaptronic Output mode unchecked.
Step 6 -
- Download the IC-7 software- https://www.haltech.com/downloads/software/#
- Watch these youtube videos - How to set up your iC-7 Dash and iC-7 Fuel Level and Direct Sensor Input Update
- Connect the 34 pin connector into the IC7 dash - I advise doing this before re-installing the OEM or aftermarket gauge cluster back to make sure everything works.
- The FD fuel level sweep is from 90 to 0. I highly recommend you remove your fuel hanger and set the offset voltages to get true zero and true 100% (note to pull your fuel pump fuse while doing this or the pumps will prime when you key on) You can always fill your take to full and calibrate full and then drive around until empty with a gas can if you do not feel comfortable with removing the hanger. I suspect every car is going to be slightly different on the custom calibrations.
- If you do not have a 3D printed gauge cluster the IC-7 standard dash mount does work and there is room to fit the haltech dash in between the steering wheel and the OEM gauge cluster. Double stick tape or fasteners into the oem steering column plastic.
- If you do not feel comfortable with setting up the IC-7 dash or enabling the CAN on the Adaptronic ECU you are welcome to purchase 1 hour of time to get this configured. Note more time maybe needed depending on how many screens are wanted to be setup.